AN ITALIAN NOCTURNE (week 7)

AN ITALIAN NOCTURNE 

Nasturtiums Over Trasimeno

James Aponovich

oil on canvas, 17" x 12"

Massimo said, " You know James, it takes about three weeks to get comfortable here in Italy." I blankly looked at him and nodded as I sat at Aldo's with a birra grande in front of me, trying to clear out the cobwebs after the transatlantic ride Elizabeth and I had just taken. With a hoarse laugh he continued,
 " And you must be here seven weeks before you are really here!" I looked down at my plate of affettati misti ( you never drink without food) and thought, what in the world does that mean, particularly if you only have ten days? What is this hidden Italy? I would eventually discover what Massimo meant.

LIVING IN ITALIAN TIME

Piazza Umberto I, Panicale

James Aponovich

Pencil on paper

In Italy, everything is closed on Monday. Even if that is not true, you must assume it. A restaurant, which is always open on Sunday is open on Monday, but closed on Tuesday, or is it Wednesday, I forget, no I think it's Thursday. You go to the bank at 1:00...closed, return at 3:00...closed. You go to the Forno a few minutes past noon to buy focaccia....closed.

There is a time for everything. 

SNOOZE YOU LOOSE

Aldo, Bar Gallo, Panicale

Aldo and Daniela's Bar Gallo never seems to be closed. Italy is a culture run on coffee. In Panicale, Bar Gallo is where you find yourself at least three or four times a day. It is where everybody comes for this or that depending on the time of day. Sometimes it is just to be around other people and feel the heartbeat of the town.

DAYBREAK

Aldo starts putting out tables at 7:00 or earlier, always fresh flowers. All the shop owners and merchants come in to stand ( in pieti) at the bar and savor that first cup of coffee. In Italy, particularly on weekdays, breakfast is minimal, conversation is not.

Me                    " Ciao Aldo!"  " Buongiorno Daniela!"

Daniela             " Buongiorno James, dimmi, dimmi ?"

Me                    " Due cappuccini, e un cornetto con marmalatta, per favore."

Daniela             "Certo James, dentro o fuori?"

Me                    "Fuori, fa bel tempo oggi, grazie."

Daniela             " Prego"

                                                                                                          * butchered Italian

It is called  friendly conversation and it occurs in every shop and store. Sleep in and you miss it a vital connection to Italian life.

study for: James at Bar Gallo
Elizabeth Johansson Aponovich
Pencil on paper


Now, about that cappuccino.

*

Me                        "Hi Aldo, Good Morning Daniela"

Daniela                  "Good morning James, tell me, tell me ( what you want)"

Me                        " Two Cappuccino and a croissant  with jam, please."

Daniela                 " Certainly James, inside or out  ( refers to, where are you sitting?) 

Me                        " Outside, it is nice weather today, thanks."

Daniela                 " Your welcome."