PALIMPSESTS OF ITALY

Before the invention of paper, European Scribes wrote on dried lambs skin called vellum. (The texture of artist's drawing papers still referred to as vellum). Vellum was expensive, so in order to reuse the sheets, the old letters were scraped off, leaving behind a faint trace of the old text. These faint remains are called palimpsests. A walk through Panicale reveals many traces of old doors, windows and plaques, all forming a wonderful Panicalese Palimpsest.

The highest level of the town, Piazza Masolino, is named after the hometown (disputed) hero artist, Tommaso Fini (1383-1447). He is better known as Masolino da Panicale. He made a name for himself in Florence and Rome.

Piazza Mascolino is the old Civic center of town with the Gothic Lombard Campanile ( bell tower) where the town records are stored. During an attack it was also the refuge of last resort.

The old arch is still visible on the house of the Podesta or Medieval Town Mayor. Taste was turning toward the rectangular Renaissance window and door frames.

From the Sketchbook
Piazza Sant' Michele Archangelo
James Aponovich
pencil on paper

The next level is the religious piazza Sant' Michele Archangelo. The church was built around 1000AD, but, in 1696 the Baroque had arrived and the exterior was "modernized" in the prevailing taste.

The next level is the business/ social center, Piazza Umberto. Here the proud citizens would erect plaques to commemorate visits from important Popes, as Panicale is walled and high above the plain there was a reduced risk of malaria and bandits. It became a favorite stop over between Perugia and Florence.

A memorial stone commemorating the visit of Pope Innocent III in 1216, in typical Italian fashion, an electrician drilled a hole in it for wires.

{week 38}

Copyright 2015 James Aponovich

MADONNA DEL BUSSO

Madonna del Busso

I was showing Massimo some of the drawings in my sketchbook.

Massimo,  "James, do you know what Busso means?"

James, (This was sounding like an Italian Knock-Knock joke) " No, what?"

Massimo, "How do you say......BOOM!"

THE SETTING

Panacarola sits below Panicle along the shore of Lake Trasimeno. Since it was once an ancient lake bed it is quite flat, but very fertile. The Ancient Romans used to refer to this area as their "breadbasket". Anyway, one day we were seeking to buy some wine from the local vineyard owned by the Lamborghini family (of car fame). We came out empty handed because inexpensive and Lamborghini are two words that do not like to be together. On our way out we came across the most unusual church, Madonna del Busso.

THE PLACE

As far as architecture goes, it's a mess. It was built around the turn of the 20th Century with an English style belfry and a Post-Modern shape. It's painted pink and cream and sits on a white road in the middle of green fields. A row of pine trees parade in front of it. It would make a nice painting.

THE STORY

( you can't make this stuff up)

It seems that there was a group of Italian good ol' boys who didn't think much of conventional fishing techniques. They discovered that if they threw bombs into the water that after the explosion fish would die and float to the surface. Dinner! Maybe they were a bit liquored up, but somehow one of the bombs blew up in the boat!...No one was hurt!....A miracle!!  It must be that the Madonna saved them!...A huge miracle!....Let's build a church!...Whadda we call it?...I dunno....How about BOOM!

So, it was born and every September they honor the event by holding a horserace(?) and  have a grand festa until its dark, and then,....fireworks....BOOM!  BOOM!

Madonna del Busso

James Aponovich

pencil on paper

{week 37}

Copyright 2025 James Aponovich

LUNCH {Pranzo} ITALIAN STYLE

"Lasciate ogni speranza, voi ch 'intrate"

(Abandon all hope, you who enter here)

                                                                         -Dante Aligheri, The Inferno 

Our Neighborhood

 Well, at least abandon all hope of getting things accomplished for the rest of the day. Italians take lunch very seriously, no grabbing a sandwich on the run this day. Our neighbor, Annmarie, was leaving for a time and decided to have an "informal" grill for a few friends. ( then why is that woman wearing Prada?)

A View Of The Garden

We were about twenty, all told, Italians, Americans and a sprinkling of Danes. As is was a warm afternoon we were to dine in the garden.

Wednesday, 1:00 pm.

The lunch begins at one o'clock, or should I say the prosecco  is poured then. There is a competition to see if one can pop the cork over the theatre building. ( They say it has been done, but I have my doubts.)  In the garden, tables are laden with bruschetta con affumicato ( smoked salmon toasts) amongst other bites. Guests start arriving in staggered groups, most more or less late ( Americans are always on time).  Introductions are made, more prosecco is poured. " James, do you prefer whiskey?", I am asked, "No, grazie."

PRIMI ( first course)

Ceci Soup

We finally sit down for the first course, Zuppa di Ceci ( chikpea soup) and another primi, Risotto con Radicchio ( rice with chickory). No pasta, but that's O.K., I'm already stuffed..........more prosecco?

Perhaps some red wine?

SECONDI ( main course)

From the Grill

The 'grill' comes out, salsicce, e costoletto maiale ( grilled sausage and pork chops). These are meant to be separately, followed by the vegetables, but everybody just piles their plate full. Italians are not afraid of food and you are never asked if you have any type of food prohibitions.

If you can still breath, next comes the fruit and cheeses. If your glass is empty, not to worry, it will be filled. Thankfully, there is water.

There is much conversation and laughter, we are expected to change seats again and again. I don't mind , it gives me a chance to butcher my Italian to new ears, Oh, but wait! There's dessert? Tiramisu? I can't...the plate is put down in front of you.

As we start the goodbyes I glance at my watch.

It's 4:30 pm.

Photos courtesy Stew Vreeland

HOLLOW HOUSES

AT ALDO'S:

A43: " Ciao Massimo!"

Massimo: " Ciao James! Come stai?"

A43:   "Va bene. Massimo, I keep seeing abandoned farmhouses all around the countryside. Are they                           empty because of taxes? If not, why?"

Massimo:   "No, it's not taxes...It's just, how do you say...tastes change. Young people want new
                   houses, not in the country."

ROVINE (Ruins)

Rovina, Casalini ( in progress)
James Aponovich
pencil on paper


I seem to be attracted to the farmhouses in Italy that have been abandoned to time and nature. Perhaps I find empathy with them due to the fact that often I feel like a rovina myself.

Rovina, Podere Poggio del Lago
James Aponovich
pencil on paper


As you drive try Umbria and Tuscany the landscape is dotted with these grand Fattorie sitting in the middle of fields. I wonder where are the English and Americans who want their own Romantico Under the Italian Sun?

Rovina, Panicarola ( in progress)
James Aponovich
pencil on paper



As you look closer, you find the answer. We, who are "from away", want not an Italian farm but our 'vision' of an Italian villa. The ground floor of most farms here were for animals. It takes a long time to get that smell out. The staircase (scalette) is on the outside and it leads to
the second floor ( piano nobile).... heat and running water? Probably not. Electricity?
In other words........

" With enough money you can make water run uphill."
                                                -Italian proverb

So, if your vision is a villa in Italy with sweeping views and an infinity pool, you can find it and with enough time and money make it. Just be aware that at the end of the day, it will be nice, but is it Italian?



{week 34}
Copyright 2015 James Aponovich

DRAWN TO ITALY

LAGO TRASIMENO

Lake Trasimeno is the third ( or fourth?) largest lake in Italy and it dominates northern Umbria. It is only a drop of what it once was, it once stretched from Arezzo in the north to Spoleto in the south. Leonardo Da Vinci proposed linking the Tiber and the Arno to the Lake so there could be navigable commerce between Rome and Florence. He was full of big ideas, rarely realized. The Lake is quite shallow so the water is often  turquoise green. Unlike lakes in New England,no vacation house dot its shores, only fields and a few marshes.

The name is derived from the legend a failed (what else) love affair between the nymph Agilla, who was born in nearby Agello, and Trasimeno, son of the god Tyrraene. As their union was impossible, they threw themselves into the lake that now bears his name.

Isola Polvese from San Feliciano

James Aponovich

pencil on paper, 9" x 14"

The largest of the three islands that seem to float around on Lake Trasimeno is Polvese. It is largely uninhabited now but its history goes back to before the Etruscans. During the 13th Century, a fortessa (castle) was built on the south side of the island by the Knights Templar. Later, on the other side a monastery ( Orvieitan) was constructed and both ruins still stand. It once housed hundreds of people but malaria  drove them out. Napoleon wanted to drain it.

All I know is when you see the emerald Polvese sitting in the turquoise water....magic happens 

{ week 33}

Copyright2015 James Aponovich

THE LURE OF DRAWING IN ITALY

James Aponovich

sketchbook

"Idle hands are the devils tools."

                           - Puritan proverb

Q.  I've noticed that you do a lot of drawing in Italy, what gives?  Are they studies for paintings?

                                                                                  - Roberto C., Toronto

A. I don't crochet so it keeps me busy.

DESIGNARE

Drawing is active meditation or it can be likened to a dancer taken class daily or a pianist playing scales. With drawing, you sit yourself down in front of something and you must digest a lot of information. Somethings are discarded as superfluous, others are emphasized. The minds eye  edits and the hand puts it on the paper. Tools are simple, pencil and paper, but it is not easy.

Podere Poggio del Lago (abandoned farm / ruin)

James Aponovich

Due Pini  ( Two Pines)

James Aponovich

Today, Elizabeth and I went to Bagno Vignoni in the Val D'Orcia. It's a tiny Medieval Spa known since Roman times. A large Piscina (pool) dominates the piazza which was constructed by The Medici's. Lorenzo D'Medici himself came to the pool in an effort to alleviate his gout.

 It is one of the most charming spots for a light lunch. While we were sitting there at a small enoteca, I did what I so often do in Italy, I drew.

Bagno Vignoni

James Aponovich

{week 32}

Copyright 2015 James Aponovich

ITALIAN ARTICHOKES

Artichokes

James Aponovich

oil on panel, 20" x 16"

The artichoke is the vegetable counterpoint to the lobster. Both wear armored spikes and are formidable opponents. In America, both are enjoyed simply....hot and dipped in melted butter. Here in Italy, the artichoke sings a different song.

THE KING OF VEGETABLES

The artichoke,that most Italian vegetable is in reality a thistle. The best artichokes come from the top of the plant, the Italians call these 'cimaroli' because they come from the 'cima' or peak of the plant. The season runs from December through April. The Roman artichoke is the round 'Romanesco' which is green. The other dominate variety is the elongated 'Violetto' with

 purple leaves (shown above).

CARCIOFI

The Culinary Holy Trinity of Rome

CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA ( Jewish Style)

Flattened and deep fried in olive oil to a deep golden brown. Crisp on the outside and warm and tender in the middle. Order these a Da Giggetto, next to the Portico d'Ottavia.


CARCIOFI ALLA ROMANA

The leaves are stuffed with chopped artichoke stems, garlic, parsley, lemon and Roman mint called 'mentuccia'. They are then braised in olive oil and water until very done.


CARCIOFI con I PISELLI

Artichokes stewed in olive oil with onion, prosciutto and peas.

!!!*** MEDICAL ALERT ***!!!!

I write this on Pasqua ( Easter Sunday). Pasqua is enjoyed with family with huge feasts. Tomorrow is Pasquetta and is meant to be spent with friends. Elizabeth and I had planned a dinner party with friends featuring 'Carciofi Lasagne' (Artichoke lasagna), but, unfortunately we haver"prendiamo raffreddore " (caught colds and cough). Perhaps next week.

To be continued....

CIAO

{week 31}

Copyright 2015 James Aponovich